In this episode I try out the 2-In-1 Support/Cargo Bar. This is the first time I have used one, so let’s see how long it last. As always, uncut, unedited, in raw footage in first person view. Follow link for coupons.https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B3Zc0t5wicGnRnR6V1ZHcDYxZWc&usp=sharing
Today Ill be review the Lockstraps Tie Down Straps with Combination Lock Carabiner, part number LS101. This self-locking Tie Down Strap allows you to easily secure just about anything while offering superior security and functionality. Just set the combinations on the carabiners by using the tip of a ball point pen. It has a stainless steel interior cable that runs the entire length of the double nylon strap for extra durability. In addition, both of the locking carabiners and both loops are secured to the strap with heavy-duty steel rivets making for a supremely strong theft resistant tie down. The strap dimensions are 8 feet 3 inches long by 1 inches wide by a of an inch thick.
Note: Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.
I have a 1964 Ford 100 and my girlfriend and I are expecting a baby. This is the only vehicle we have. I had seat belts put in and they work great. I was wondering if there are special laws about having a car seat in the truck? I know about the rear facing and thats not a problem. I just dont have a backseat for him to sit in. Our truck only has a front bench seat. Does the car seat have to be in the middle or the side? Any information is appreciated. Thanks
I will be honest with you. Having an older vehicle does some problems in transporting a child as safely as possible. I will explain. But there are (some) solutions. My answer here is a little confusing because I do not know what type of seat belts you got in your truck.
The car seat can be placed anywhere in the vehicle in which it can be properly installed. A properly installed car seat moves less than an inch side to side and front to back at the belt path. If it moves more than that, then it isn’t in tight enough. Put your weight into the seat as you are tightening the seat belt.
If your 1964 vehicle has airbags, they need to be manually shut off. It probably does not have an airbag because seat belts weren’t instituted until the 70s. If you have a front center seat, try installing the car seat in the center. If it can’t be installed properly, then it is best to have it next to the door where it can be correctly installed.
Currently, the American Academy of Pediatrics (AAP) recommends that children ride rear facing until they are at least 2 years old. In fact, the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) recommends that 2 and 3 year olds ride rear facing for as long as they can: http://www.safercar.gov/parents/RightSeat.htm
Here is more information about WHY these organizations recommend extend rear facing: http://www.thecarseatlady.com/car_seats/rear-facing_seats.html
But when you do have to turn your child forward facing, the government has two crash standards among forward facing car seats that come with the harness system.
Forward facing car seats have two head excursion standards. It says that a child’s head can fly as far as 32 inches from the vehicle seat back installed with only a seat belt. Measure this distance in your truck. This distance is a very long ways. The top tether is a strap that connects the top part of the child seat to an anchor in the car. This tether is important because it reduces head excursion significantly- by 4 to 6 inches. More about the top tether; this is a video; wait until it talks about forward facing car seats: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ULJ8Vx79Vv4
Statistics show that children in car crashes usually obtain serious injuries to their head and chest. A head injury can be permanent. Because your 1964 vehicle does not have a top tether anchor (vehicles made after 2003 have factory installed anchors), it will be extremely important to keep your child rear facing as long as possible to protect their head.
What type of seat belts did you get in your car? When your child is going to use a booster seat (age 5 to 6), then a lap/shoulder seat belt will be required. This is because a booster seat is designed to lift a child up so that the adult seat belt fits across their body correctly. Keep in mind that a properly used and installed forward facing car seat is always safer than a properly used booster seat (even when the top tether isn’t used).
If you need any help in determining a car seat model for your infant, ask another question here on yahoo answers and I will come back. Or you can post your question onto this website: http://www.car-seat.org/ This website is a forum where parents and caregivers can ask questions regarding child passenger safety. Child passenger safety technicians will love to respond to your questions! You don’t even need to register to post your question.
Here is another great tip to save unload time by rolling up your trailer flatbed straps onto the rails really quick. Grab a cordless drill and allen key and watch them roll up. The problem with the handle one they sell in the truck stops is you need both hands to roll them up so if your strap becomes twisted it does not work. But with this idea its FREE and actually works and works fast and frees up your other hand to feed the strap into the ratchet.
i was wondering if there was any way i could mount a light bar on the roof of my car without making holes, i was thinking maybe if there was some sort of way to attach it to the roof rack but i havent seen anything like that, if they do hve them were can i get them? and under 130 dollars?
Make clamps for both sides, that what we did way back for roof cargo. The clamps fit right above your doors.
I don’t literally mean without a sling but with something that clamps the gun down when climbing walls or moving around and not wanting the gun to, btw i am attaching it to a molle vest (for airsoft).Is there any kind of way to tie it down but have it at quick access? Thank you
Ahh and the keyboard warriors strike again, nice to see you here today sir with your dumb-ass answers
The one and ONLY way to clamp or tie it down with straps, Velcro, etc. and STILL have quick access to it is by actually using a traditional sling. (what’s wrong with that?) I’ve hunted now for well over 50 years and been a game warden/hunting guide with a LOT of years of experience carrying a rifle or shotgun over, up or down some pretty serious terrain and I have NEVER found a better way of doing so other than the conventional sling. If there was a better and more accessible way of doing so, the military would have discovered and perfected it long ago. I have ALL of my guns equipped with slings now after learning first hand what it is like to get caught in a predicament without one. I was in a VERY steep canyon during California’s coastal deer season and had to get out of it before dark, or spend the night there which would have been a MAJOR concern to family and friends back in camp. So I opted to climb several hundred yards up the wall of dense brush and loose rock to the ridge line. Carrying my rifle in my hands and climbing safely at the same time was simply NOT an option. I had ONLY my belt to sling the gun, which I did, and used bark pealed from a branch to tie the loops of my jeans together enough to keep from losing my britches. (Extra bullets, pocket knife, coins, and car keys in my pants pockets didn’t help much either.) It was NOT a fun experience and I doubt that I will ever forget it. Slings on my rifles and shotgun will see to it that I never have to repeat it again also. I do not want a gun "fastened" to my back or pack that can’t be brought into action as quickly as I can with a sling. Here in Alaska, BIG mama bears and irate mother moose can sometimes give good reasons for having your gun close at hand. Anywhere but IN hand is too far away when you need it MOST. Strapped or fastened to your back or pack won’t be fast enough. That’s about as efficient as carrying a can of bear spray in the bottom of your pack. Know what I mean?
I was wondering how many grounding straps should be on my 1998 Chevy blazer and where should they go i have found 1 and it connects to the back of the engine and goes to the fire wall. Is there any more that i need to know about any help will be greatly appreciated.
Theoretically you only need one strap between each insulated (or electrically isolated) vehicle component…block to frame or body, body to frame, frame to battery.
In reality, there are far more grounds. The lights are normally grounded at each corner of the vehicle. The core support is normally grounded to the frame. The battery is normally grounded to the frame or engine.
You can use a multimeter set on "continuity" to test that everything is grounded. Unless you have a starting issue, pretty unlikely a chassis ground is the real issue to whatever problem you are having. If the block to body ground is bad, yes, would be a major problem. But if the battery is also grounded to the block, no issue.
Think of it like this…anything on a vehicle that is bolted, that has a ground strap connected to the battery, is grounded. The fenders are bolted to the body, so the entire body is grounded. The body is insulated from the frame and engine due to the rubber mounts. A single connection (ground strap) between the body and frame completes that ground. Run a ground between the motor and body, the motor is grounded. If the battery cable is connected to the block OR frame, every metal piece on the truck is now grounded. There is no magic in grounding.